Iceland’s Strange Cuisine: Hákarl (Fermented Shark)
Hákarl, also known as fermented or rotten shark, is a traditional Icelandic food made from the meat of Greenland sharks. The shark's meat is fermented and preserved with a particular method, which results in its unique, pungent flavor and strong odor. The practice of fermenting shark meat dates back to the Viking Age when Norse settlers in Iceland learned the method from the Inuit people who lived in Greenland. It was a necessary way of preserving meat in a place with limited resources and a harsh climate.
Where Can You Try It?
We are always on the lookout for new and interesting bites and fermented shark sounded right up our alley! With some research, we found a few places in Reykjavik where you can try hákarl:
Cafe Loki: This was where we tried hákarl with a shot of brennivín. This cozy corner cafe serves up some traditional foods and was also the spot where we got to sample meat soup and fish mash (their lamb shank apparently is THE dish to try but unfortunately they were sold out when we were there).
Íslenski Barinn: This cozy bar in downtown Reykjavik is known for its traditional Icelandic cuisine, including hákarl. They serve it as part of a "Viking Platter" that also includes other local delicacies like dried fish and lamb.
Kol Restaurant: This trendy restaurant in downtown Reykjavik serves modern Icelandic cuisine with an emphasis on local and seasonal ingredients. They offer a "Rustic Icelandic Feast" that includes a sample of hákarl along with other traditional dishes.
Kjötkompaní: This specialty meat shop in Reykjavik sells a variety of Icelandic meats, including hákarl. They also offer other Icelandic delicacies like smoked lamb and reindeer.
Bónus Supermarket: If you're looking for a more budget-friendly way to try hákarl, you can find it at most supermarkets in Iceland, including the Bónus chain. They sell it in vacuum-sealed packages in the refrigerated section.
How Is It Made?
Before we dive into the taste of hákarl, it stands to describe the process of making it: it all starts by burying the shark meat underground in a shallow pit for several weeks, pressing it with stones to remove excess fluids. The meat then undergoes a process called "dry-aging," where it's hung up to dry for four to five months. Finally, the meat is cut into small cubes and served, typically as an appetizer, accompanied by Icelandic schnapps called brennivín.
There is a common misconception that hákarl is made from the shark's urine due to the way that the Greenland shark expels waste. The shark's kidneys contain high levels of urea, which is normally filtered out of the body through the kidneys and excreted in the urine. However, the Greenland shark's kidneys are not efficient at removing urea, so the waste is stored in the flesh of the shark.
During the fermentation process used to make hákarl, the urea is broken down into ammonia, which contributes to the strong, pungent odor and flavor of the meat. So while hákarl is not made directly from the shark's urine, the high levels of urea in the shark's body do play a role in the creation of this unique Icelandic delicacy.
What Does It Taste Like?
Let me just say that I’ve always been an adventurous eater and have tried many a fermented dish before. However, hákarl is on a whole other planet! When the dish arrived at our table, it was cut up into small innocuous little squares. We were told to try a piece and then take a sip of brennivín.
My first bite could only be described as a combination of three things: a strong chemically ammonia taste that goes up your nose like wasabi, pungent fish-jerky, and a slight cheese taste. Similar to other adventurous foods like durian, I found the smell harder to overcome than the taste. The intense ammonia smell was quite overpowering and too close to a household cleaning product to enjoy but taste-wise, it wasn’t so bad.
It's worth noting that hákarl is not widely eaten in Iceland as a daily staple, so it's more of a novelty or a cultural experience for locals and tourists alike. That being said, it's definitely worth trying if you're feeling adventurous and want to taste a unique part of Icelandic culinary culture.
