What and Where to Eat in Chinatown, Bangkok (Yaowarat)
Bangkok is home to the world’s largest Chinatown and has such a dizzying array of food stalls, markets, eateries, and restaurants that it would take an entire lifetime and more, to try everything. From mom-and-pop hole in the walls to Michelin-starred stalls, this is a street food lover’s dream come true.
Yaowarat Road is the large thoroughfare road that runs right down the heart of Chinatown. In fact, Chinatown in Bangkok is often referred to as Yaowarat. It is bustling (even for Bangkok standards), but the real party starts when the sun goes down and the length of the road transforms into one long, seemingly never-ending street food night market.
Image courtesy of: https://www.adventuresofjellie.com/bangkok/chinatown-food-tour
Because of the day/night transformation, it’s best to approach your culinary adventure according to time of day as some shops are only open during the day, or during the evening. So without further delay, here are the top places we recommend checking out:
Best Daytime Eats
Nai Ek Roll Noodle: Crispy pork belly in an umami-infused broth with funny-shaped noodles. If this caught your attention, then you’re in the right place. This eatery opens bright and early at 8:00AM and I recommend coming here in the morning before the evening lines start to form. Get the kway chap (70/100/150 baht S/M/L), their signature Teochew rolled-noodle soup dish that has peppery notes and is filled with various pork cuts, crispy pork belly and offal including intestines, kidney, ears, and liver. It may sound adventurous but trust me, you’ll be coming back for more - as we did (we ate breakfast here twice!). Other offerings that are just as tasty include their selection of Chinese herbal soups.
Kway Chap at Nai Ek Roll
2. Lao Tang Braised Goose: If you’re like me and love anything roast duck or goose, then you’ll need to try this place. Lao Tang Braised Goose has been in business since 1942 and is a long running establishment. Great for a hearty breakfast or lunch-time meal, come here early as they often sell out (they’re open 8:30am - 2pm). If you’re feeling adventurous, get the full set which includes the roast goose, goose innards, goose blood, rice and a side of bitter gourd soup. The goose is perfectly cooked, tender, bursting with fat and flavor, without too much of a gamey taste.
3. Lim Lao Ngow Fishball Noodle: This place opens at an odd time (4:30pm - 8:30pm) but it’s best to get here early before the tour groups start showing up. A Michelin Bib Gourmand location, you can get a bowl of traditional Teochew style fish ball noodles (dry or with pork broth) for only 50 baht ($1.85 CAD). The fish balls are bouncy, springy, and pair perfectly with the noodles (you can choose between a few options). Remember to add the provided condiments (a little fish sauce, sugar, chili, and vinegar) for a well-rounded dish that you’ll want more than one serving of.
4. Cha Tra Mue (Yaowarat): There are a lot of Thai tea shops around, but in my opinion, this chain is the best. Although not a food item, it’s worth adding here as you can’t go wrong with a refreshing, creamy, iced Thai tea for only 40 baht. If you’re not down for a drink, try the soft-serve ice cream available. Finally, they also offer instant tea packages that make a great gift to bring home.
5. Cathay Fish Maw: It may look and sound like alien gelatinous glop but fish maw is a delicious soup that is often served in Chinese restaurants. The thick, slightly sweet, mellow soup is filled with fresh, crisp fish maw (fish swim bladder). You can add chicken, crab meat, abalone, or quails eggs and prices start at 60 baht. Go early (open 7:30am - 2pm) because they may run out of crab later in the day.
Best Evening Eats
T & K Seafood: Grab a seat right on the street and order a bunch of seafood and some cold beers and you’re good to go. The seafood here is fresh and there are a ton of options. We had grilled giant prawns, crab fried rice, morning glory veggies, and of course, cold Leo beers! If T & K is packed, Lek Seafood right across the street is just as tasty and offers similar fare.
T & K Seafood - one of our first meals in Bangkok Chinatown.
2. Fikeaw Yaowarat: There is a bit of a wait at this seafood stall tucked away in an alley off Yaowarat Road, but the wait is worth it. When it’s your time to order, go up to the front stall and select your pick of fresh seafood. The chef cooks it right on the spot. Sit back and watch the magic happen as the heat from the wok caresses your face. There’s all kinds of fish, shellfish, and veggies to choose from - all infused with wok hei. Try the crab in peppercorn gravy, fresh oysters topped with a spicy sauce, or giant grilled scallops cooked to perfection.
3. Sweettime: If you love dessert, this place is a sweet, sweet, utopia. We tried the water chestnuts in coconut milk (40 baht) and the crunchy ruby-colored balls were a surprising delight. Other Thai Chinese desserts available include ginger dumpling soup, pandan in coconut milk, black sesame balls, taro milk and imitation birds nest desserts. Open after 5:30pm until late in the evening.
Sweettime on Yaowarat - pink water chestnut balls in coconut milk.